Index

Step the Mast Using an A-Frame - The Civilized Way.
Hoist using the Boom - As per the SJ23 Manual, Tech Tip F17.
Construct A-Frame - Poles, Foot Hinge, Apex Hinge,
Mast - Mast Hinge Pin, Temporary Shrouds, Transom Support Post,
Pull A-Frame - Block-n-Tackle or Primary Winch , Trailer Winch, Electric Winch,
Panache Mast Stepping Procedure - Step Mast with 2 Methods to Pull A-Frame,
Parts (Oops) - Buy SJ Standing Rigging Parts.
 

In a trucker's world an A-frame secured to the back of a flat deck truck is usually called a "gin pole" and is used to easily lift a heavy object on or off the deck or manoeuvre it across the yard.  It is a very convenient tool to "lift & walk" a heavy object for a short distance.  An A-frame mounted on the end of a work barge is a very robust yet simple crane.  You don't see this type of A-frame used much anymore because it is quicker to rotate a hydraulic knuckle crane mounted in the middle of the barge than rotate the whole barge.  As late as the mid 1900s sail driven canal boats in the Netherlands were equipped with an A-frame as a permanent deck fixture to quickly raise or lower the mast so the boat could slide under a fixed bridge.  The boat's momentum carried it past the bridge and the mast was raised on the other side to resume sailing.  This procedure had to operate very smooth and quick so the vessel would not loose way and block the canal to other commercial traffic.  It was considered a major blunder if you screwed up the procedure.  Unfortunately you don't see this technique used much anymore as diesel propulsion has pushed sail aside.

In the trailerable sailboat world, an A-frame can come into its own for stepping a mast.  The advantage of using an A-frame is the mechanical advantage to reduce the lifting effort.  The longer the A-frame is relative to the mast length, the greater the mechanical advantage.  The control that you have leads to the second advantage, safety; in large part because you don't have to stand under the unsupported mast!  If you step the mast hand over hand, with the aid of a block and tackle connected to the forestay, then you must also steady the mast sideways so you don't twist the deck plate off.  The most difficult part of stepping a mast is the transition from standing in the cockpit to standing on the cabin roof.  It is during this CRITICAL TRANSITION that the deck plate is usually twisted loose.  This is also when you twist your back out of alignment with the increased odds of dropping the mast.  Suffice it to say that the less time the mast is in the unsupported transition zone the better.  If the wind is strong use some temporary shrouds.  Don't rely on a lull in the wind, especially if the wind is gusty.  Ultimately you might be better off waiting it out in a coffee shop.
 

MAST HINGE PIN (1990) - The factory hinge pin is difficult to insert through the four mast base holes or to remove it if they are misaligned.  Especially so since there is no handle on the pin.  For this reason I made a replacement pin from 1/4" SS rod.  One end is bent back on itself to create a 1" diameter loop for easy control and the pointy end is tapered for easy insertion through the four holes. 

To lock the pin I drilled a hole through the rod for a tiny hair pin.  You could drill another hole near the ring for a second pin but I haven't found the second pin to be needed. TOP 
 

A-FRAME CONSTRUCTION (1999) - Fabricate your A-frame in the sequence listed here to minimize your chances of making an error:

1. Cut the poles to length, ~101".  (This length means the A-frame lays inside the forestay).  See POLES.
2. Attach the top half of the foot hinge to the bottom of each pole. See FOOT HINGE.
3. Bolt each hinge plate to it's T-extrusion.
4. Screw the T-extrusion on it's mating foot pad while the pad is aligned to the toe rail.
5. Cross the pole ends to form the apex and drill a common hole through both poles using a single long bit to make the hinge. See APEX HINGE.

By following these steps you eliminate complex measuring that will likely be off by several degrees resulting in a misaligned hinge that will bind or can't pivot.  The chances of you measuring it correct are minimal because this is not XYZ 90⁰ dimensional construction!  Remember, Murphy! 

POLES - The 2" OD aluminum poles of Panache's A-frame have 1/4" thick wall.  This thickness is overkill to the N^th degree but the price was right.  1/8" thick wall is sufficient, similar to a spinnaker pole or electrical conduit.  See COMMENT below.  The distance from the pivot bolt at the foot to the hinge bolt at the apex is 99" with ~1" of pole extending beyond the hinge bolt.  With the A-frame laying on the deck, the apex fits just short of the forestay fitting, leaving room to transfer the forestay from the A-frame to the deck fitting.  If you decide to make your poles longer, keep in mind that the apex must not block the stem fitting to attach the forestay.  It is prudent to attach the forestay to the fitting quickly to secure the mast and protect the safety of the people standing in the drop zone.  It is also convenient to leave the A-frame on deck for road travel or winter storage, as seen in these two  photos.

If you want to fabricate an A-frame for a larger sailboat, scale the dimensions up proportionally.  The length of the poles should be from the mast step to the forestay fitting.  The pole diameter and wall thickness should be equivalent (or bigger) to a spinnaker pole designed for your boat.  If the assembly is too long then consider two shorter poles joined with a sleeve.  This would allow you to store the A-frame in a small space.  This is a great way to go if you are a road warrior sailor who wants to be independent of shore services.

2, FOOT HINGE & DECK PADS - You can make a fully articulating hinge (using a pneumatic rod end fitting) so the poles always align to the deck or you can make a simple nut/bolt hinge that aligns to the plane the poles pivot on.  I built the latter design because I had the material and was in a bit of a hurry to launch. 
The top half of the hinge plate consists of a 1/4" thick aluminum flat plate fitted inside the bottom of a pole fastened with a 3/8" bolt with two centering spacers.  The spacers are short sections of aluminum tube cut from a ski pole.  (profile diagram of hinge assembly).  Notice the two notches cut into the pole to fit the flat plate into.  The spacers and notches hold the plate firmly along the center line of the pole.  The plate is bent 25⁰ to align with the aluminum T-extrusion (bottom plate of hinge) on the deck pad.  The T-extrusions must lie parallel to the center line of the hull (the turning axis of the hinge) so the frame can pivot preferably a full 135⁰.  At the hinge location, draw an imaginary line across the deck and another one over the hinge, fore & aft, parallel to the center line.  This is your pivot point and axis of rotation.  The curvature of the deck can fool you when taking measurements.  Be careful. (If you use a full articulating ball joint here, you can dispense with all of this critical alignment as the hinge would pivot freely regardless of the angle of the poles.  Aviation type ball joints are not cheap but they work very well.  The aircraft industry and farm implements use them extensively for perfect alignment of control arms). 

The hole in the hinge plate is drilled slightly forward of center so the A-frame can lay flat on the fore deck.  The two deck pads are made of (2x8)" spruce to protect the gel-coat and are coated with tung oil to prevent rot.  The 3" long aluminum T-extrusions are screwed to the center of each deck pad.  Thus the hinge operates freely through the full 135⁰ arc that the frame must operate.  With the deck pad wedged against the toe rail and tied to the stanchion, the pad doesn't move.  All of this may sound complicated, as it takes a bit of finagling to bend the hinge plates just right, but both hinges must turn freely.  Take your time with this part of the job.  Patience has its rewards!

Once the A-frame is placed on deck, mark the bottoms of the poles with a felt pen as starboard and port for the next time you hoist the mast.  It may not be obvious now but you'll thank me later for this tid bit of advice! 

3, APEX HINGE - The simplest way to create a strong hinge at the apex is to overlap the ends of the poles.  I was well on the way to making a fancy hinge when common sense prevailed!  The cross lap joint may look unsophisticated but is strong, it works, is easier to make and stores well. 
Assemble the foot hinges first, place the assembly on the deck with the deck pads tied to the stanchions, cross lap the poles to form the A-frame, clamp them together and drill a pilot hole through the middle of both poles.  Be very careful in drilling the pilot holes as alignment is critical.  If you are off even by a little bit, the hinge will bind.  Drill out the holes to 1/2."  Then insert a 1/2" hinge bolt with a nut as a spacer between the poles to create room for the eye bolt nuts.  The two eye bolts (cast type are strongest) are through bolted just below the apex hinge bolt.  Finally, test your frame by swinging it through the full 135⁰ arc of travel. 
The forestay attaches to the aft facing eye bolt and the 4:1 block and tackle or winch line attaches to the forward eye bolt.  At right you see the apex of the A-frame with the block and tackle in place.  I tow Panache regularly with the A-frame hanging just below the mast, unless somebody has borrowed my A-frame! 
 

4a, PULL A-FRAME with BLOCK & TACKLE (1999) - I have pulled Panache's mast up with a 4:1 block & tackle and an A-frame for the first 23 years.  This requires ~90' of 3/8" line, leaving a long tail section that allows the helper to stand well out of the drop zone while pulling.  Some people are squeamish about a stick falling on them! 

PULL with PRIMARY WINCH - If you're going to crank the mast up using one of your primary winches (replacing the helper who pulls the block & tackle), then the line must be ~130' long.  If you ever had a desire to install self tailing primary winches, there is no better justification than to step the mast.  With a self tailing winch you can safely stop in mid lift to correct a snag.  Although if you leave the winch it is safest to also secure the line around a cleat.

4b, PULL A-FRAME with TRAILER WINCH (2022) - At the end of 2021 I helped a friend lower his mast and discovered how easy it is to pull the A-frame using a trailer winch.  He uses 2" wide woven seat belt webbing for a hoist line.  The webbing packs tight on the drum and on his boat passes it over the bow without touching it.  For similar operation on Panache I run the hoist line over the anchor roller to get around the bow.  Since the flat portion of an anchor roller isn't wide enough for 2" webbing I use 1/2" (12mm) polyester line over the port roller.  The port roller lines up more closely with the bottom eye on the port bar of the A-frame, making for an even roll on the winch drum.  The 2 speed trailer winch has a ratchet that locks in either direction so it can stop in mid lift, giving me a chance to release a potential snag.

So as an experiment at end of the 2022 I lowered Panache's mast using the trailer winch.  The mast went down with the greatest of ease.  Of course I had to try lifting the mast from horizontal, which the winch handled easily in low range.  I always found that lifting the mast from horizontal using the block & tackle to be impossible without an initial lift from somebody in the cockpit.

• The new winch hoist line is 20' of 1/2" (12mm) triple plait polyester, (~5080 lb. BS & 710 lbs SWL). 

• The trailer eye hook is spliced on the end of the line with 6 tucks into the standing line, plus a taper.

• It took ~4 weeks to remove most of the construction stretch and harden the line by tensioning it really tight while exposed to rain and sun.  Hard line packs tight under load on the winch drum without jamming between the turns; an absolute must for hoisting.  By tensioning the line to ~500 pounds it tested the overall strength to ensure it can handle the lift.  Better to discover it can hold this now than to see it fail while hoisting the mast!  I don't have a strain gauge to measure how much load is on the hoist line.

• The winch drum is full with 20' of 1/2" line.  This still leaves ~6 turns of line on the drum to start the pull during the heaviest part of the hoist, when the mast is horizontal and the A-frame is vertical.

• It is imperative that the A-frame pads be tied to the stanchions as the pull becomes almost horizontal with the A-frame on the deck.  This is when they experience the most push aft against the stanchion.

• The alternative hoist line is 2" wide woven polyester seat belt webbing (~6000 lb. Breaking Strength).  However, it must turn over a flat 2" wide anchor roller to load up the longitudinal fibres uniformly.  Protect it from UV when the trailer parked.

For now the 4:1 block & tackle will be left on the A-frame in the rare case the mast has to be stepped on water.  It was never my intention to step the mast on my own as I've always had somebody to help me step the mast.  But there are fewer guys around to help these days so this technique is a timely welcome addition.  Given the "shortage of helpers" this is now my current technique to step Panache's mast. 

4c, PULL A-FRAME with ELECTRIC WINCH - A variation of stepping the mast with a trailer winch is to use an electric off-road winch.  In the installation shown here the winch is temporarily bolted to the draw bar of the trailer from where it is easy to operate.  This requires a long draw bar for the line to pass the bow on its way to the apex of the A-frame.  Besides the large torque of an electric motor, this style winch has internal gears to increase the pulling power.  I doubt that mast hoisting is much of a mechanical load for this winch.  The electrical power comes directly from the truck battery and alternator, which is standard practice to power an off-road winch and is well within limits of the electrical system.  Jack hoists his mast using an A-frame connected directly by the forestay. 
The nice thing about this procedure is that you have a remote control to operate the winch.  The mast can go up or down quite quickly which can be a benefit in gusty wind.

I think this includes pretty well all the popular techniques of stepping the mast.  If you have an alternate technique, I'd be interested to hear from you.  Bob. _TOP
 

The problem of tying temporary shrouds to the SJ23 toe rail is that the deck elevation is below the pivot point of the mast.  As a result the lines go slack when the mast is lowered, rendering them useless.  The key to solving this is to artificially raise the toe rail to the pivot height of the mast foot thereby maintaining line tension for the full arc of stepping the mast.
This can be done with a bridle secured to the toe rail adjacent to the mast as shown below.  The steel ring, tied at the middle of each bridle, just aft of the stanchion, becomes the elevated pivot point. 
BRIDLES - Each temporary shroud consists of a bridle e/w 2 small carabineers and a welded ring (below left) plus a shroud with a loop tied at the top (right) to tie to a halyard.  To position the ring to the pivot point, the bridle lines are unequal in length to fit the spacing of the toe rail holes.  For expediency the aft line is marked.  Carabineers are used to clip the bridle to the toe rail.  The temporary shrouds are 11' 7" long, hoisting to about a foot (30cm) below the spreaders.  The line is low stretch 5/16" polyester.  To ease use, the bridle and shroud are permanently spliced to each other at the ring.

With the A-frame supporting the weight of the mast and the temporary shrouds controlling the side swing you have total control.  As a result, I can pull or release the A-frame hoist line from the safety of the trailer winch.,  The block and tackle or a primary winch being alternate.  Any of these places are preferable to standing in the drop zone of the mast.  The benefits of safety and control far exceed the extra setup time.   TOP
 

TELESCOPIC TRANSOM SUPPORT POST (2020) - Whenever I stepped the mast with the 4:1 block and tackle pulling the A-frame, my buddy pulled the A-frame line while I straddled the cockpit seats to lift the mast to arm length.  Two problems;
   - The 4:1 block and tackle with A-frame does not have quite enough mechanical advantage to lift the mast from horizontal.
   - I couldn't slide the mast aft without it falling off the roller. 

I lost my buddy to age limitations so modified my hardware by making the support post telescopic by 24" and added a roller with sides.  This allowed me to place the mast on the roller (about 15⁰ up from horizontal) with lateral support lines tied to the pushpit, making it easier to pull the mast up on my own.  Lifting it was getting harder each year! 

UPDATE: Now that I use my trailer winch to hoist the mast I no longer extend the support post.  The two sections are bolted together through the locking pin hole.  The only part I still use is the roller with extended yoke sides at the top.  I've retained this feature in case I have to raise the mast with Panache on the water.   TOP

MAST RAISING PROCEDURE (Pull A-Frame with Trailer Winch or 4:1 Block-n-tackle) - Before raising the mast, inspect the standing rigging where it attaches to the mast and deck.  All cotter pin ends must be rolled over leaving nothing sticking out and show no sign of fatigue.  All nuts must be screwed tight to full depth.  The wire must have no strands standing proud of a swaged or compression fitting, no broken strands sticking out ("meat hooks") or kinks between the end fittings and the turnbuckle toggles are not bent. 
UPDATE - While it is easier to step the mast with this A-frame and temporary shrouds, I can now step the mast on my own pulling the A-frame with the trailer winch.  However, the job is easier with two people.  OK, so lets put the stick UP.

1. SAFETY - Stepping a sailboat mast is a delicate & dangerous task.  Observe the steps and safety precautions listed below to reduce the possibility of injury or damage.
   
   HIGH VOLTAGE POWER LINE - Ensure the sailboat is on the shore side of any overhead obstruction or electrical line.  An aluminum must be kept at least 57ft (20M) away from a high voltage line to prevent arcing to the mast.  (from the National Electrical Safety Code, NESC Handbook).
   
   STEP MAST WITH NO VEHICLE ATTACHED (Not recommended) - When I step Panache's mast at the ramp, I keep the trailer hitched to the tow vehicle so it can't rock or roll away.  Geez that would be embarrassing on YouTube.  However, I have stepped the mast once without the tow vehicle attached.  To say that I'm not fond of this, is the understatement of the year.  However, the trailer was level on hard ground, the wheels were blocked, and I stood on the trailer tongue to add weight forward while cranking the winch.
   
   STEP MAST ON WATER - If you step the mast on water, it should be flat calm and use the A-frame with temporary shrouds.  The boat rocks too much when walking on the deck and the risk of twisting the deck plate loose is too great.  The only time I stepped the mast without temporary shrouds is documented in the photos below.  Years later I stepped it again on flat water using temporary shrouds and all worked fine. 
    
2. TOOL APRON - I carry tools in an apron as I walk around the boat.  It saves the frustration of stumbling over loose rigging to grab an errant tool I left at the other end of the deck.
    
3. ATTACH WINDEX & ANTENNA - Attach the Windex and VHF antenna while you can still reach the masthead.  Do a double take on both to ensure they are aligned and tight.  Its a real pain to lower the stick again just to tighten a set screw. 
   NOTE - I remove the Windex for highway travel but leave the antenna in place. The RF connector is permanently sealed with butyl and electrical tape.
    
4. PLACE A-FRAME - Place the A-frame on the foredeck with the deck pads against the forward side of each mid stanchion and wedged against the toe rail.  The poles are marked starboard and port to place it on the deck correctly.  Tie each deck pad around its stanchion to prevent movement. 
   NOTE - The A-frame lays on deck over winter.  In practice the deck pads on Panache's A-frame stay wedged against the stanchions and seldom slip.  But since using the trailer winch it is imperative the A-frame pads be tied to the stanchion and toe rail as the pull becomes almost horizontal with the A-frame flat on the deck.  Safety is a good thing.
    
5. CHECK RIGGING - It is assumed the shrouds are attached to their respective mast tangs, spreaders and chain plates.  The backstay is attached to the mast head and chain plate.  The forestay is attached to the mast head and the turnbuckle will be connected to the stem, with the pin ready to connect to lock it.
   HINT - If this is your first time with SJ23 rigging, read the SJ23 manual to assemble it correctly and ensure that no rigging wires are crossed that would prevent the mast from standing.
    
6. ATTACH TEMPORARY SHROUDS - Clip the bridles to the toe rail with the ring adjacent to the mast and stanchion.  Slip the mast sleeve over the mast, attach the main halyard and slip it close to the spreaders.
   Critical tension will be set later when the mast is slid aft.  See TEMP SHROUDS.
   NOTE:  In practice I leave the temporary shrouds in place over winter.
    
7. LOOSEN ALL SHROUD TURNBUCKLES 3/8" - It is assumed that all shroud turnbuckles are still loosened 3/8" from their tuned sailing position since the previous take down.  The 3/8" of slack prevents stretching the shrouds, turnbuckles, chain plate bolts, deck seals, and bulkheads when the mast lifts a bit as it passes ~30⁰ aft of vertical.  It pivots on the aft end of the foot. 
   HINT - Set a tie wrap or line around the toggle thread at the tuned sailing position of each turnbuckle.  It can reveal the required 3/8" of exposed thread when the barrel is loosened.  Ensure at least 1/2" of thread is screwed into the barrel. 
   - Tape the upper & lower shroud turnbuckle toggles together in the upright position; both sides. 
   - Tape the backstay turnbuckle toggle in the upright position.
   Now all turnbuckles can pivot freely on their T-bolts without the toggles binding or breaking as the mast arcs its way up or down.
   - Remove the tie down lines securing the shrouds to the cabin top hand rails.  These lines hold the turnbuckles up off the deck slightly to keep you from stepping on them.
    
8. LOOSEN SPLIT BACKSTAY TURNBUCKLE - On Panache I remove the backstay turnbuckle barrel and release the backstay control line 8" to the knot that limits forward movement when stepping the mast.  Have the turnbuckle barrel ready to install once the mast is standing. 
   NOTE - (Panache is E/W roller furling and the backstay must be loosened to insert or release the forestay pin).
    
9. SECURE TRANSOM SUPPORT POST - The transom support post must be tied with lateral support lines from the top of the post to the FRONT of each pushpit to steady and support it for rolling the mast aft.  The post stays in the compressed position for raising the mast with the trailer winch.
   HINT - If I have to raise the mast on the water using the block & tackle on the A-frame, I extend the support post with the mast on the roller.  After this I can push the mast aft on the roller.
    
10. PUSH MAST AFT & PIN THE FOOT - Release all tie down lines along the mast, close the companionway sliding hatch (avoid stepping on it to protect the solar panels), stand on the foredeck and push the mast aft on the roller until the mast foot lines up with the holes in the deck hinge plate.  Hold the foot of the mast down to insert the hinge pin followed by the hair pin to lock it.
     

    SAFETY - The condition of the fasteners that hold the foot casting to the bottom of the mast extrusion MUST be very secure.  The mast foot undergoes a tremendous amount of torque when it is stepped.  If the fasteners are worn loose, replace them with 1/4" NF stainless steel machine screws.  Drill out the rivet holes and tap a thread through the foot casting.  If the hole is tapped correctly, NF machine screws are stronger than pop rivets.  Snug up the screws and secure them with marine sealant to prevent movement and corrosion.  Not comfortable with machine screws?  Install the biggest SS pop rivet you can find.

     

11. TENSION TEMPORARY SHROUDS - Tension the shrouds with the main halyard when the mast is slid aft and pinned in the hinge plate.  See TEMP SHROUDS.
    HINT - If this is first time the temporary shrouds are attached, now is the time to set the lengths correctly by tightening the main halyard.  (See push sleeve up). 
     

12. CONNECT JIB HALYARDS TO A-FRAME - Tip the A-frame up and connect the 2 jib halyards to the apex.  Then connect the hoist line to pull or release the A-frame.
    
    A - Pull A-Frame with Trailer Winch (2022) or Electric Winch.
    - Attach the winch line to the bottom eye bolt of the A-frame.  Let out enough line to tilt the A-frame just past vertical where it is possible to reach the apex while standing on the deck.
    - Attach the 2 jib halyards (in case one breaks) to the very top of the A-frame using 2 wraps around the pipe then clipped to itself.  Divide the tension equally between the 2 halyards secured to cleats at the bottom of the mast.
    - Attach the forestay to the top eye bolt so it travels with the A-frame. 
    - Set the winch ratchet for hoist.  Use low speed for raising or lowering the mast.
    IMPORTANT - If you have roller furling you must protect the foil when stepping the mast, especially with an aluminum foil.  I leave it to your understanding of your system to take the necessary precautions.  The advantage of Panache's flexible furler is that it can safely flex under its own weight while stepping the mast.  So important for a trailerable boat.
    - Double check the tightness of the temporary shrouds by tightening the main halyard.
    - Secure all loose lines to the mast to eliminate clutter. 
    SAFETY - While I have stepped the mast on my own at this point, it isn't the goal since the job is safer with a helper, especially the part when rolling down the ramp to slip the boat into the water.  Somebody needs to hold on to those two lines tied to the hull!  My group of aging sailors is running out of able bodied help and anything to make the job easier allows us to continue sailing.
    - GO TO STEP 13.
    
    B - Pull A-Frame using 4:1 Block & Tackle & Primary Winch.
    - (Assume the block & tackle is still attached to the bottom eye bolt of the A-Frame). 
    - Tilt the A-frame back till you can reach the apex.  Attach the 2 jib halyards (in case one breaks) to the top of each arm with 2 wraps around the pipe then clipped to itself.  The wall thickness of Panache's A-frame is thick enough to handle this load.
    - Attach the forestay to the top eye bolt. 
     Tilt the A-frame up ~20⁰ from the deck and attach the block & tackle to the forestay fitting.  (I have NEVER attached to the ram's horns for fear it may slip off or the horns bend back).
    - Snug up the block & tackle, winding the free end around a primary winch & secure it to a cleat. 
       (A self tailing winch is the safest type for this job.)
    - Secure the 2 halyards at the bottom of the mast, dividing the tension equally. 
    - Tie all loose mast lines to the butt of the mast to eliminate clutter. 
    - GO TO STEP 12.
     

13. LAST INSPECTION & PULL A-FRAME - Take a last look around the deck to ensure all rigging wire is free from a potential snag and all turnbuckle toggles are free to pivot fore and aft.  Breaking one can really spoil your day!
    HINT - If the adjacent turnbuckle toggles (bottom flexible portion) are taped, tie wrapped or tied together in the upright position it keeps them inline to prevent buckling while stepping the mast.  In lieu of these, shove a screw driver through adjacent toggles.  (Photo is not an SJ23). 
    - Similarly prop up (Panache) the backstay toggle with vinyl tube or tape it in the upright position. 
    
    SAFETY - If you zip tie the toggles together, cut off the tail with micro shears to leave a smooth finish that is safe to pass bare skin over.  If you poke your hand into a tie wrap that was trimmed with side cutters you will puncture your skin which is extremely painful.  If the tie wrap has any dirt on it, the wound will likely get infected which can be lethal.  A micro shear can be bought from an electronics supplier and sometimes a tool shop.
    
    A - Pull A-Frame using trailer winch - I stand on the trailer tongue to crank the trailer winch keeping an eye over the deck for a snag.  If a helper cranks the winch I stand on the deck next to the mast looking for a snag as the mast goes up. 
    - I have hoisted and lowered the mast several times on my own by using the trailer winch and temporary shrouds.
    
    B - Pull A-frame using 4:1 block and tackle - My helper pulls the A-frame hoist line and I check for snags while standing on deck next to the mast. 
    - I have never been able to hoist the mast on my own by pulling the block & tackle by hand.  If I ever get self tailing primary winches for Panache I plan to stand to one side in the cockpit to pull the A-frame hoist line.  This is a good place to watch for jammed turnbuckles, snagged lines, etc.
    
    If I feel resistance with either technique, I STOP to investigate the problem.  You can do serious damage to a toggle by bending it or to the wire by kinking it.  Pull the mast up to standing quickly.  Don't dilly dally with the mast half way up. 
     

    CAUTION - Using a trailer or primary winch to pull an A-frame presents both safety and a danger unto itself.  If you let go of the handle the weight of the falling mast can spin the winch handle at a speed that is extremely dangerous. "NEVER LET GO OF THE WINCH HANDLE". A - If I have to stop hoisting and leave the trailer winch, ensure the ratchet is set and the handle is secured with a line to the trailer frame by slipping the loop over the handle. B - If I have to stop hoisting and leave the primary winch, the free end of the line is secured around a cleat.  DO NOT STAND IN THE DROP ZONE OF THE MAST.

     

14. PIN THE FORESTAY & SECURE BACKSTAY - Once the mast is standing;
    
    A - Pull A-Frame using trailer winch - With the hoist line tight (and a line slipped over the winch handle to secure it), I can safely walk forward over the deck, hold the A-frame down with my body weight (this pulls the mast forward against the backstay) and transfer the forestay (no tension on it) from the A-frame to the stem fitting.  Line up the holes, push in the forestay pin and install the locking ring.  On Panache the backstay must be slackened 6" to offset the weight of the furler.
    Once the forestay is pinned I tighten the back stay tensioner line and screw in the turnbuckle barrel to tension the backstay.
    B - Pull A-frame using 4:1 block & tackle - Have your helper push and hold the mast forward while you transfer the forestay from the A-frame to the stem fitting.  Alternatively pull and hold the mast forward with a line around it and the free end secured to the deck.  Your choice.
     
15. TIGHTEN THE UPPER & LOWER SHROUD TURNBUCKLES - With the mast reasonably centered (left / right), snug up each top shroud turnbuckle by turning the barrel while holding the wire from turning.  Turn each barrel to the tie wrap, no further.  You can use a free hanging mainsheet halyard to confirm if the mast is centered.  Snug up the lower shroud turnbuckles.  Tension the rigging for sailing and lock the turnbuckles.  For fine tuning see Tech Tip F33.  The mast should be raked aft with the mainsail halyard touching the deck ~(6-8)" aft of the tabernacle. 
     
16. REMOVE A-FRAME & TEMPORARY SHROUDS - Now that all the turnbuckles are snug it is safe to remove the halyards from the A-frame and place it on the trailer.  The transom support post goes in the truck and the temporary shrouds go in a bag for the mast take down in the Fall.
     
17. INSTALL RUNNING RIGGING - Run all halyards and reef lines to their respective rope clutches at the cockpit.  A really easy way to "push" a line through a rope clutch is to use a fine fid.  Stop using a little screw driver.
     
18. INSTALL BOOM - Install the boom on the mast. 
    - Connect the boom topping lift and main sheet. 
    - Connect the boom vang. 
    - Run the lazy jacks run through their respective block under each spreader. 
    - Install the mainsail and run it up the mast.
    - Run the reefing lines. 
    - Lower the mainsail for storage on the boom. 
    - Lay the cover over the mainsail.
     

19. INSTALL JIB - If you have a roller furling now is the time to slide the jib up the foil and store it in the rolled position.  See Tech Tip F10.

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1. LOWER THE MAST - Reverse the hoisting procedure above to lower the mast.  Hope you can remember all this?
   There is one additional step required when lowering the mast on your own.  The mast must be pushed aft to overcome the initial resistance of the mast foot that keeps it standing.  After attaching all the required mast stepping lines:
   A - Lower A-Frame using trailer winch - Tie a 30' long line to the backstay (green in the sketch above) and send the free end forward over the deck to the trailer winch.  Start tilting the mast aft by simultaneously pulling the long line and releasing the winch line, slowly.  Keep pulling until gravity takes over and the line tension increases (~20⁰ aft) as the mast is lowered on the hoist line.  Continue lowering the mast till it nestles in the crutch on the transom post.  I successfully started lowering the mast on my own in 2023.
   B - Lower A-frame using 4:1 block & tackle - Push the mast aft while letting the A-frame lift line (block and tackle) out with your hand until gravity takes over and the line tension increases (~20⁰ aft).  Once gravity takes over, continue lowering the mast by letting the hoist line out till it nestles in the crutch on the transom post.

If you have never stepped a mast before, review and remember this procedure so you know it cold when you do the job.  No guess work allowed.  Go through the motion, doing several dry runs if you have to.  Nobody will pass judgment on such an important job as this.  Everybody appreciates a job well executed and done safely.  Practice, practice, practice till everybody understands.  The astronauts do it all the time.  If I have a "green horn" to help me, I always go through at least two dry runs with them till I know they understand.  You know they understand when that squirrelly look on their face changes to a "light bulb" smile.  If you don't get that light bulb moment, change your description of the process!  Go slowly so no steps are missed. 

"I once helped a guy lower his mast and quickly discovered he knew very little about the procedure when it got stuck above horizontal, just out of reach from standing on the dock.  His lines were too short (tightened to violin tension) preventing the mast from being fully lowered.  While he yelled for my help it was scary how quickly he was willing to cut a crucial line in the urgency of the moment to prevent a deck fitting from being ripped out.  Had he done so, the mast would have dropped and likely bent.  As it was, some kind hearted dock watchers supported the mast so we could release the lines and then we all lowered the mast gently to the deck.  After discussing the problem, he still didn't realize the physics of a mast base that pivots on the cabin roof, well above the deck where the A-frame pivots.  Sometimes the obvious isn't obvious to all!  But it does demonstrate the need to fully understand the physics of the task."   TOP
 

NOTE 1 - If you wish to leave the A-frame in place while towing, then suspend the apex of the frame from the mast with a line.  This prevents the frame from pounding on the deck and punching a hole through the gel-coat.  In addition, you could use a tie down line to prevent the frame from bouncing up to the mast!  To date I know of 10 A-frames that have been built using these plans.  Mine has stepped dozens of boat masts.  Hmmm, I should say this qualifies for a free grog!  

VIDEO - Link to a U-Tube video showing exactly my system on another sailboat.  PS: I did not copy his design. I found this URL years later.
 

CONCLUSION - "Using an A-frame along with temporary shrouds and a strong winch takes all the worry and frustration out of stepping the mast.  There is no sideways movement.  I have no worries about stopping mid lift to check on things.  I wouldn't dare stop in the middle of a lift using the hand over hand method.  The deck pads stay in place (tied with a short line) and the A-frame hinges work perfect.  I've used this A-frame to step the mast of several other SJ23s and an SJ7.7M.  Despite the ease that I describe of stepping the mast, I still recommend it to be a two man job because shit happens when you least expect it.  That is when you need another set of hands.  If it is too windy, go find a coffee shop with your friend!" 
 

REPLACE SJ23 MAST - If you have "an oopsy moment" with your mast or want replacement parts, contact:

SAN JUAN SAILBOATS
Stephen Jensen
1(206) 714-9661 (4:30-7:30 PM Pacific, please)
Lots of parts and Stephen can get just about anything else that isn't in stock. 

Rig-Rite, Inc
1(401) 739-1140
(Sell parts for Keyon)
- The masts for the New Bern SJ23 hulls were built by Kenyon Marine in Guilford, CT. 
- The masts for the west coast SJ23 hulls were assembled by Tom Hukle at Yacht Riggers in Seattle who used parts shipped from Kenyon.

The masts for the SJ24, 26, 28 or 30 were made by Spar Tech.  The rigging division closed shop in 2008.

SPAR TECH
15230 NE, 92 St.
Redmond, Washington.
1(425) 883-2126
 

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